Rolex Submariner 16800 vs 168000: A Tale of Two Classics

At first glance, the Rolex Submariner references 16800 and 168000 appear to be near-identical twins. But dig a little deeper, and their story reveals Rolex’s tireless drive for refinement and innovation. Let’s explore the history of these two models and uncover what sets them apart.

Rolex Submariner ref. 16800

Image Source: Bob's Watches

Introduced in 1979, the Submariner 16800 marked a major milestone in the evolution of the Submariner line. Replacing the outgoing 1680, this model was the first to feature a sapphire crystal, offering improved scratch resistance, along with an increased depth rating of 300 metres. It was also powered by the Calibre 3035 movement, which introduced a quick-set date function — a welcome improvement for daily wearers.

Early 16800 models came with matte black dials and painted tritium hour markers, which have often aged to a creamy yellow hue, prized by collectors for their vintage character. In 1987, Rolex updated the design, swapping the matte dial for a glossy finish and adding white gold surrounds to the hour markers — a detail that gave the watch a more modern, polished look. Thanks to these features, the 16800 is often called the “transitional” Submariner, bridging the gap between vintage charm and contemporary style. On older examples, you’ll notice the dial has a slightly flatter, more understated appearance compared to later models.

Rolex Submariner ref. 168000

Image Source: Le Specialiste Vintage 

The Submariner 168000, nicknamed the “Triple Zero,” debuted in 1988 and had a remarkably short production run of roughly 18 months, making it one of the rarest Submariners ever produced. At first glance, it shares much with the late 16800 models: the same Calibre 3035 movement, sapphire crystal, glossy dial, and white gold hour marker surrounds.

However, the critical upgrade was the shift from 316L stainless steel to 904L stainless steel. While most watchmakers at the time used 316L, Rolex’s move to 904L significantly enhanced resistance to saltwater corrosion and enabled a superior polish. The result? A more robust case and a noticeably brighter, glossier finish when compared to the more muted sheen of 316L. The adoption of 904L was a pivotal moment for Rolex, establishing a new standard for durability and finish that remains a brand hallmark to this day. The 168000 served as the essential bridge to this new era.

 Curved End Rubber Strap for Rolex Submariner Deployment

Final Thoughts

Although the Submariner 16800 and 168000 appear similar on paper, they capture two distinct moments in Rolex’s history. The 16800 symbolises the Submariner’s transition into the modern age, while the 168000 — short-lived but influential — introduced the advanced materials that define Rolex’s reputation today. Whether you’re drawn to the vintage allure of the early 16800 or the rare and innovative “Triple Zero,” both models stand as testaments to why the Submariner remains one of the most celebrated dive watches in the world.